Here is a little more info.
Upset beam in attic.
You could install an upset beam down the center in the attic.
To give the bathroom a spa like feel luxe features were added like a soaker tub a frameless shower enclosure a new toilet complete with heated seat and led lights marble and glass mosaic tiles and a crystal chandelier.
You do not want to see the beam or joist cut to a point where it bears on the top plate.
The lvl i figured i would need is 22 feet long and i thought i would put 2 of them together.
I want to install an lvl beam in my attic to support my ceiling rafters.
I am removing a wall that separates my kitchen and living room.
In some houses this may be the case.
Flush mounted beams are commonly installed in attics.
Centers as well as the rafters.
In many others.
With hundreds of square feet of ductwork surface area in the attic and a δt of 75 f the air coming out of the vents in your home will be significantly higher than 55 f.
A new beam goes in.
The roof system is stick built so there are no manufactured engineered trusses the ceiling joists are on 16 in.
A common misconception is that it takes little more than the installation of some decking over the attic joists to ready an attic for move in.
An attic can get up to about 130 f in the summer and the conditioned air entering the ducts is about 55 f or so.
Bearing the new beam on the end walls install joist hangers on each of the 2x6 ceiling joist one on each side of the new beam to reduce the span and increase the load capacity of the attic space.
Usually this becomes a problem for ceiling joists under low slope roofs or when you use a beam as an upset header.
Then slip the beam members into place and rest them on the temporary cradles.
Typically either side of the new beam the walls and framing is shored up.
The old framing tied into the new beam with proper joist hangers and strong tie type connectors.
Anyway i want to put a hidden beam in the attic but an engineering friend of mine recommended building a truss in the attic instead.
You might not have enough height above the plate line at the perimeter of the building to allow for proper depth at the bearing point.
A bedroom dressing area and master bathroom.
One end would be supported on my gable end and the other side would be on a supporting wall.
Cut the beam to length and cut notches to clear tie plates in adjoining walls.
I have done a few of them myself.
Jlnels mar 19 2011 04 35pm 13.
Cut the two beam members lvls 1 2 in.
